Later that day, after a truly inspiring time in this vast and glorious wilderness, I set out for Tswalu Kalahari, the Oppenheimer-family-owned reserve about 300km away, near the very small town of Vanzylsrus. I soon stopped to watch a huge Cape cobra, yellower than the one I saw earlier, crossing the road. Not many guests come by car; they are most often flown in from Johannesburg.